Can you repair your skin barrier?
Ayesha Muttucumaru
Beauty & skincare
Reading time: 5 minutes
Suffering from the effects of overuse of actives or overwashing? Discover how a skin barrier support plan could help – for a more hydrated, resilient & radiant-looking complexion
From the most-hyped ingredients to buzz-worthy hacks, the fast-paced world of skincare is always evolving.
However, according to dermatologists, the secret to glowing skin could be closer than we think – it could lie in supporting our skin barrier.
“A robust skin barrier underpins skin health,” consultant dermatologist Dr Justine Hextall tells us. But what’s its purpose? "As the outermost layer of the skin, it helps shield it against everything from the dehydrating effects of UV rays to irritation caused by overuse of actives, to help keep our skin happy and healthy.”
As highlighted in the Boots 2023 Beauty Trends report, a line-up of barrier-bettering launches have made it easier than ever to help our skin barrier do its job effectively.
Scroll on for everything you need to know about your skin barrier and ways to support it, as well as our team's top picks that'll help ensure the barrier is always in peak condition.
What is the skin barrier?
Think of it as your skin’s coat of armour against environmental wear and tear. “The skin barrier is the outermost layer of our skin called the stratum corneum,” explains CeraVe consultant dermatologist, Dr Alexis Granite. “Skin cells within this layer are held together by a fatty (lipid) glue, similar to bricks and mortar.
“This layer is important because it serves as the first line of defence against environmental aggressors, such as pollution, germs and irritants, while also preventing moisture loss (transepidermal water loss) from the skin.”
It's important not to overdo it with potentially irritating ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C and retinol
What can damage the skin barrier?
As well as age and environmental factors, such as too much sun exposure and cold weather, overwashing (especially with hot water) may affect your skin barrier and how well it functions.
“If you use too strong a cleanser or soap that disrupts the natural acidic pH of skin, then this can start to disrupt the skin barrier, leading to moisture loss,” explains Dr Hextall. Frequent application of alcohol-based hand gels on your hands, while important, could contribute to this, too. As well as harsh cleansers, using products with high-strength active ingredients may cause irritation, which may impact your skin barrier function, adds Dr Granite.
“It’s important not to overdo it with potentially irritating ingredients, such as alpha hydroxy acids, vitamin C and retinol,” she says, particularly if you’re new to them.
Our genes may also play a role in how sensitive our skin is and the strength of our skin barrier. “Depending on our genetics, some people are more vulnerable to barrier damage,” says Dr Hextall. “For those individuals, just central heating use, a cold wind or a dry, cold winter day may damage the skin.”
How can you tell if you have a damaged skin barrier?
“Skin with a disrupted barrier may be dehydrated and flaky, as well as red and irritated, and it may also be more prone to breakouts,” explains Dr Granite. It’s also been found that those who have eczema could have a weakened skin barrier.
As well as how it looks, observing how skin feels throughout the day can be helpful in order to see if your washing habits or skincare might need an overhaul. “If you’re having to reapply moisturiser multiple times during the day, this suggests your skin barrier may not be doing its job,” says Dr Hextall. You may find that you have trouble tolerating certain types of skincare, too.
I always point out to my patients that most so-called sensitive skin is in fact sensitised skin
Is it possible to strengthen your skin barrier?
The answer: it depends. “I always point out to my patients that most so-called sensitive skin is in fact sensitised skin,” says Dr Hextall. So, if your skin barrier has been disrupted as a result of environmental changes, overuse of actives, overwashing or strong ingredients, there are ways you can support it so that signs like redness, dryness and dehydration are reduced.
To help your skin recover, using gentle products and avoiding common irritants like fragrance can be helpful. Everyone’s different though and so patch testing a new product can be a good idea to help keep risk of irritation to a minimum.
A prevention plan is also a good idea. “Pre-empting barrier damaging autumn/winter weather and using more hydrating serums and richer moisturisers and barrier creams to help protect a sensitive skin barrier can help prevent seasonal skin issues,” Dr Hextall says.
If you have an impaired skin barrier as a result of skin conditions like eczema or atopic dermatitis, it’s best to book in with your GP or a dermatologist, or speak to your Boots pharmacist who will be able to support you in creating a tailored treatment plan.
You may want to consider booking in with our Boots Online Doctor Eczema Treatment service* or Rosacea service* for quick and confidential advice that you can receive from the comfort of your own home.
How long can it take for your skin barrier to strengthen?
It depends from person to person, but if your sensitised skin’s been caused by overwashing or harsh skincare, and you’re able to make changes quickly, you could start to see the difference pretty swiftly.
"This can be two weeks for some people", says Dr Hextall, (provided the root cause has been found) "stretching up to around six months."
“Once someone stops the irritant skincare, such as a facial soap or too many actives, recovery can be quick,” adds Dr Hextall.
How to support a damaged skin barrier
If you’re suffering the effects of too much hand washing or harsh skincare, here’s your SOS plan for supporting and protecting a healthier skin barrier to help you get your glow back.
1. Use a gentle cleanser
As your skin may be feeling a little fragile, try and avoid harsh cleansers that may strip skin of valuable moisture.
2. Try a hyaluronic acid serum
If your skin’s feeling rough and dehydrated, it can be a good idea to go back to basics. “Consider stopping any irritant actives until skin settles,” recommends Dr Hextall. These include cutting back on exfoliating acids and retinol.
However, hyaluronic acid is an ingredient that most, if not all skin types can benefit from. A type of humectant, it helps skin attract and hold onto water to help it stay hydrated.
For best results, we like using it in a serum and applying a few drops onto damp skin after cleansing, before popping a moisturiser on top to lock moisture in.
Try: Olay Hyaluronic Acid 24 + Vitamin B5 Ultra Hydrating Day Serum
• Size: 40ml
• Fragrance-free
• Non-comedogenic
As well as hyaluronic acid, this hard-working day serum contains calming vitamin B5 and niacinamide to help smooth and hydrate.
3. Choose a moisturiser for dry or sensitive skin
When scanning your ingredients lists, it can be helpful to have the skin barrier’s building blocks at the back of your mind. “These are fatty acids, cholesterol and ceramides,” Dr Hextall highlights. “Ideally, a moisturiser will contain substitutes for one or all of these protective components.”
Ceramides are having a real moment right now, thanks to their skin-replenishing properties, and can be found in a wide range of creams. “Shea butter’s also an excellent replacement for these naturally occurring oils,” says Dr Hextall. We also recommend looking out for glycerine and niacinamide, which can help calm and soothe.
Try: CeraVe AM Facial Moisturising Lotion SPF25
• Size: 52ml
• Fragrance-free
• Non-comedogenic
• SPF25
• Boots Beauty Awards 2022 winner
As well as barrier-supporting ceramides and niacinamide, this day cream’s broad-spectrum SPF25 helps protect skin against harmful UV rays (though an additional sunscreen is still needed).
4. Apply a barrier cream
If your skin’s feeling particularly delicate, you’ll be happy to know that there are some brilliant barrier creams out there to choose from. “They’re excellent at helping to soothe and protect damaged skin,” says Dr Hextall.
Containing ingredients like soothing colloidal oatmeal and vitamin B5, these creams tend to be rich in texture and so are great applied all over or just on areas that need a little extra love. “If skin’s very sensitive, you can also use it to provide extra protection during a shower,” suggests Dr Hextall.
5. Hydrate straight after handwashing
If your fingers and nails are feeling the effects of harsh detergents or alcohol gel, help is at hand.
“I’d recommend moisturising immediately after handwashing,” says Dr Hextall. “Keep a hand cream by your desk during the day and next to your bed at night.”
6. Keep skin protected
While skin’s recuperating, it can be a good idea to protect it from factors that could cause further moisture loss.
Try swapping hot showers for lukewarm ones and use a daily SPF to shield skin from harmful UV rays. Thanks to ingenious developments in tech, today’s line-up of sunscreens are fast-absorbing and moisturising, making chalky finishes a thing of the past.
The takeaway
If your skin barrier is showing signs of distress from overwashing, cold weather or harsh skincare, don’t despair. Simply stripping back your skincare routine and making some moisture-rich product swaps can all help get it back to feeling and looking its best. “Be patient and consistent and your skin will quickly benefit,” says Dr Hextall.
*Access to treatment is subject to an online consultation with a clinician to assess suitability. Subject to availability. Charges apply.
