Gone spiral! The Curly Girl Method is back, but will it work for the curly haired among us? Created more than 20 years ago, we find out if its teachings still ring true today & where it can be helpful to bend, break & adapt the rules…
Written to empower, educate and help women embrace their natural kinks, the book Curly Girl: The Handbook by Lorraine Massey was first published in 2001. To regain curl control, the handbook rules are simple but strict (and sometimes shocking), including a ban on hair brushing and conventional towel-drying, plus a purge of many ingredients like sulphates and silicones that are found in shampoos and that the method suggests are bad for coils.
Fast forward more than two decades later and #curlygirlmethod has more than 900m views on TikTok, 1.5m Instagram posts, plus dedicated Curly Girl Facebook groups, blogs and even product-ingredient-checker websites to find Curly Girl-approved products. Not to be underestimated, the Curly Girl Method (CGM) community is STRONG! But does Lorraine’s manifesto still hold true today?
We live in a far more scientifically advanced world and there’s a level of online frustration about the inflexibility of some of the rules, but hey – rules were made to be broken (or adapted at least), right? With modern advances in products and more education around textured and curly hair, we ask industry experts how to make the Curly Girl Method work in more modern times.
‘Good’ vs ‘bad’ ingredients
“I expect Lorraine Massey never intended her helpful method to be taken to the extremes that it has! Yes, gentler handling and care of naturally curly and textured hair is something we certainly support, but remember this was written more than 20 years ago – we’ve come a long way since,” says Claire Shread, co-founder of Umberto Giannini.
However, with naturally curly hair herself, Claire reveals that the book does still have relevance today. “The key CGM principles have some merit for many curl types. Promoting cleansing without sulphates is great advice – curls are naturally drier than straight hair and sulphates dry out the hair cuticle, creating a perfect environment for breakage,” she says.
“Silicones, though, they get a bad rap, yet they do such an amazing job protecting curls from heat damage, humidity and frizz. My advice is, know your products, how to use them and what works for you.
“In my experience, a ‘curl-wardrobe’ for seasons and styles is best.” For Claire, this means using silicone-free products from the brand’s Curl Jelly and Banana Butter ranges in the summer, and reaching for products containing silicone when heat styling or to help her curls keep their shape in the winter.
Confusion with co-washing
Another rule is co-washing (short for conditioning wash), meaning zero shampoo and only using conditioner. Unsurprisingly, it’s a hot topic of frustration on forums for those following the original CGM (which has since been updated as many modern shampoos now omit sulphates).
“Routinely co-washing or skipping cleanser completely doesn’t have great results for most,” says Claire. “Instead, choose a sulphate-free shampoo or a scalp scrub to keep your scalp clean.”
Anabel Kingsley, brand president and trichologist at Philip Kingsley, reinforces the importance of scalp health. “Hair health is intrinsically linked to scalp health. For a balanced, optimal scalp environment, it must be clean to flourish and be healthy,” she says. “If you’re using the correct shampoo for your hair texture, it shouldn’t strip your hair. If it does, then it’s too cleansing and doesn’t contain enough moisturising ingredients for your hair texture.
“If you’re suffering from dryness and breakage, invest in a good pre-shampoo mask, such as Philip Kingsley Elasticizer Deep Conditioning Treatment to moisturise and help strengthen.”
Understanding your curls
Ultimately, your hair has different needs to someone else’s – it’s affected by everything from chemical processes to age. While younger curls may require minimal extra care but maximum freedom to experiment, hair can get more challenging over time – something the original Curly Girl Handbook perhaps overlooked in 2001.
“Hair follicles age. You won’t have the same quality of hair in your 50s, 60s and 70s as in your teens, 20s or 30s,” says Anabel. “Texture changes, as does the way it behaves. Many grapple with unmanageability, a different wave or curl pattern and products that used to work, no longer have the same impact. Curly or coiled textures are the most fragile, therefore more susceptible to breakage.
“Due to the actual curl structure, weak points are formed – think of it like a bend in a straw – so extra care is key. Also, porous – which causes frizz – curls absorb moisture quickly, but lose moisture fast. So, keeping them rehydrated is essential.”
Refresh your curl power!
So, what else still holds true from the original handbook? Well, there’s reducing heat styling and opting to air dry, plus ‘plopping’ works (a technique using a cotton T-shirt or pillowcase to ‘plop’ sopping wet hair into a mound, avoiding damage caused by twisting up traditional towels) as does ‘scrunching out the crunch’ (applying gel to soaking wet hair, leaving to dry, then scrunching out the hardened product), which is ASMR-bliss, plus a super-fun way to experiment with spirals.
Getting the right cut for curls and coils is key for enhancing your hair’s natural texture. Thankfully, there’s now a range of salons that cater for all curl patterns and, importantly, offer dry haircuts that allow stylists to cut curls where they naturally sit.
Some have even been trained by the CGM queen herself. David & David is a salon based in Plymouth whose stylists use the Deva Cut technique, which was created by Lorraine at her Devachan salon in New York whereby each curl is cut individually, at an angle, to avoid disrupting the curl pattern. “We’re amazed at how far people will travel and how important and life-changing this cut is for so many of our curly hair clients,” they tell us. Other salons that offer the Deva Cut technique are Unruly Curls in London, Curl Truth in Southampton, The Curl Clinic in Leeds and Brave Curls in Scotland.
So, don’t throw in the towel on CGM! Just like curls, bend the rules (a bit) and you’ll find a way that works for you. “As a hairstylist familiar with the method, it’s a brilliant system for those embarking on their natural hair journey,” says Dionne Smith, Cantu natural hair education expert and celebrity stylist. “Research your products well and look out for overly-drying ingredients.
“For a quality shampoo, I recommend sulphate-free Cantu Shea Butter Cleansing Cream Shampoo for gently removing grime and build-up without stripping, paired with Cantu Shea Butter Hydrating Cream Conditioner to help rehydrate.
“Encouraging those with curly, textured hair to adopt a regimen that aims to minimise damage – especially for a hair type that’s been long misunderstood and therefore mistreated – is a great start,” concludes Dionne.
Top curly hair products to add to your routine
Fancy starting a new wave of life? Check out these curl-friendly products.
Shop more great products for textured hair in our full range.
For a soothing hair treatment mask
Umberto Giannini Thirsty Curls Overnight Hydration Curl Treatment Mask
• Size: 200ml
• Silicone-free
• Vegan*
• Cruelty-free
Curly hair is often thirsty hair. This reparative treatment mask can be used weekly or overnight for an intense boost of hydration to help nourish parched coils.
To help keep curls in shape
Umberto Giannini Crème de Curl Control Cream
• Size: 150ml
• Vegan*
• Cruelty-free
This is a go-to in Claire’s summer ‘curl-wardrobe’ for when she wants to change up her style and use heat for smoothing. In the winter, she reaches for Curl Jelly Shine Leave–In Conditioning Curl Balm. “It helps keep spirals in shape, even in wild weather,” she tells us.
To strengthen hair fibres
L'Oréal Professionnel Serie Expert Curl Expression Hair Mousse For Curly to Coily Hair
• Size: 250ml
Care for your curls while you style them like a pro. This one mousse has 10 curl-loving benefits, from hydration and definition to strength and protection against humidity, offering perfect hold without the crunch.
To see shine
Shea Moisture Moringa & Avocado Power Greens Reconstructor
• Size: 355ml
• Contains Fairtrade shea butter
• Sulphate and silicone-free
This reconstructor transforms dull curls with an ultra-rich, nourishing formula. Now you can enjoy strong strands, minimal breakage and the healthiest shine going!
To restore your coils
Redken Acidic Bonding Curls Silicone-Free Shampoo
• Size: 300ml
• Sulphate and silicone-free
This shampoo’s Curl Bond Technology strengthens coils from the inside out, restoring your pattern’s strength, shine and definition. Infused with hydrating natural oils, it creates lightweight, bouncy curls on hair types 3A - 4C.
