Your expert guide to helping improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation
Emma-Jade Stoddart
Beauty & skincare
Reading time: 6 minutes
Dark spots? Experts spotlight key ingredients & share top tips for improving uneven skin tone
If you have dark spots, dark patches or have areas of skin that are darker than others, rest assured that this is really common, although you should always tell your doctor about any changes to a particular mole or patch of skin.
“Hyperpigmentation occurs when the skin’s pigment cells (melanocytes) produce excess pigment (melanin) in an uneven distribution,” explains Dr Catharine Denning. It can affect any skintype, though it's more likely in darker skin tones, during pregnancy, in older age, or after skin injury.
If hyperpigmentation is a concern of yours, and you’ve spoken to your GP who has confirmed it’s hyperpigmentation and ruled out any underlying cause, there are several products and professional treatments out there that may be able to help. Here, we ask the experts to break down what you need to know about hyperpigmentation, from types and common causes to key product and treatment recommendations.
What are the different types of hyperpigmentation?
Pigmentation comes in many shapes and sizes, but broadly speaking there are three main types, as Dr Sophie Shotter explains.
Melasma
“Melasma typically has a symmetrical appearance with brown or greyish patches appearing across both cheeks, the forehead and upper lip,” says Dr Shotter. “It’s usually triggered by a combination of UV exposure, heat and hormones and affects women more than men.” Certain medications may also cause it.
Age spots
“These are small, brown pigmentation spots, which are caused by UV exposure,” explains Dr Shotter. “As the nuclei of the skin cells are exposed to UV radiation, the body produces melanin to form an umbrella over the cell and protect the fragile DNA from damage.”
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation
“This form of pigmentation occurs in response to inflammation in the skin,” says Dr Shotter. “It’s often the result of scarring and may occur as a wound heals.”
Wounds that can lead to hyperpigmentation include insect bites, cuts and burns.
5 ways to help prevent & improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation
1. Protect skin from the sun
UV radiation is the most influential factor in pigment production and so finding ways to protect your skin from the sun is the best self-care measure you can make to avoid making hyperpigmentation worse. Dr Denning recommends wearing a high factor (SPF30 or more) and UV star-rated sunscreen every day, as well as a vitamin serum underneath to further help replenish skin.
Dr Maryam Zamani, oculoplastic surgeon and facial aesthetics doctor, also recommends “using physical barriers, such as hats and clothing to reduce exposure to UV rays”. It can also be helpful to seek out shade during the times of day when the sun is strongest (usually between 11am and 3pm from March to October in the UK).
Try: Boots Ingredients Vitamin C Serum
• Size: 30ml
• Vegan-friendly
• Lightweight texture
• Absorbs quickly
Containing a vitamin C derivative called 3-O ethyl ascorbic acid (quite the mouthful!), this purse-friendly pick helps restore the appearance of radiance, without breaking the bank. It’s also Vegan*, lightweight and comes with useful need-to-knows on its packaging.
Try: Kiehl’s Clearly Corrective™ Dark Spot Solution
• Size: 30ml
• Contains vitamin C
• Contains salicylic acid
Powered by vitamin C, salicylic acid and white birch extract, this potent solution helps visibly brighten skin and improve the appearance of hyperpigmentation. Use day (with an SPF on top) and night before applying your moisturiser.
Try: La Roche-Posay Anthelios UVMUNE 400 Invisible Fluid SPF50
• Size: 50ml
• Sweat-, water- and sand-resistant
• No white cast
• SPF50
• Boots Beauty Awards 2022 winner
Suitable for all skin types, including sensitive, this lightweight SPF offers high protection against UVB and UVA rays. It’s also invisible, non-greasy and water-resistant. Plus, it was the winner of the Desert Island Must-Have category at last year’s Boots Beauty Awards. Tick, tick, tick!
2. Try a retinol cream or serum
Once you’ve found ways to avoid common triggers, such as UV exposure, a next step could be slowly introducing a retinol cream or serum into your routine if suitable. “They help exfoliate skin cells and slough off superficial pigment,” Dr Denning explains.
When introducing something like a retinol serum into your routine, it’s a good idea to start slowly – once a week – before gradually building up, and to wear high-factor sunscreen (SPF50) during the day as retinol can make skin more sensitive to UV rays. Note that they take some time to work and, as Dr Zamani points out, “often require 24 weeks to start seeing results”.
Want to know more about this superstar ingredient? Check out our guide to the best retinol serums.
Try: The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% Emulsion
• Size: 30ml
• Use at nighttime
• Patch-testing advised
• Not suitable when pregnant or breast-feeding
• Vegan-friendly
• Cruelty-free
Affordable yet effective, this lightweight serum combines two retinoids (hydroxypinacolone retinoate and pure retinol) to help improve the appearance of skin texture and even skin tone over time.
Try: No7 Pure Retinol 0.3% Retinol Night Concentrate
• Size: 30ml
• Use at nighttime
• Patch-testing advised
• Not suitable when pregnant or breast-feeding
• Recommended for first-time retinol users
• Fragrance-free
If you’re new to retinol, this serum containing 0.3% pure retinol could be a great starter option. It also contains Matrixyl 3000+, No7’s renowned peptide tech, to provide even more skin health benefits.
3. Try an exfoliating acid
Both exfoliating acids and peels can be effective in helping treat hyperpigmentation, although they might not be suitable for everyone, particularly if you have sensitive skin. “I tend to advocate using in-clinic peels to help shift pigment out of the skin and then send patients home with exfoliating acids to maintain their results at home,” says Dr Denning.
Dr Shotter also advocates using exfoliating acids at home.
Of course, not all exfoliating acids are created equal. “At-home exfoliating acids, such as mandelic acid, can help remove the superficial layers that harbour superficial pigment and other acids, such as azelaic, kojic and tranexamic acids, can help prevent further pigment production,” says Dr Denning. Glycolic acid may be an effective option, too.
As exfoliating acids can make skin more sensitive to UV rays, make sure to apply high-factor sunscreen (SPF50) as the last step of your morning routine the next day. And, to help reduce the risk of overloading skin, try using your exfoliating product on different nights to your retinol nights. It’ll also help reduce the risk of irritation.
Try: The Inkey List Mandelic Acid Treatment
• Size: 15ml
• Contains 10% mandelic acid
• Contains 0.1% retinol
• Vegan-friendly
This targeted treatment combines 10% mandelic acid (derived from bitter almonds) and 0.1% retinol with hydrating glycerin to gently exfoliate and hydrate skin. Shake up the tube and apply before bed. Make sure you apply high-factor SPF50 the following day.
Try: Ole Henriksen Glow2OH Dark Spot Toner
• Size: 193ml
• Contains glycolic acid
• Vegan-friendly
• Cruelty-free
As mentioned in our guide to alpha hydroxy acids, lactic and glycolic acid can help with fading hyperpigmentation and dark spots. This high-potency option – containing both acids – can be a great choice if your skin is used to AHAs.
4. Try regular in-clinic pigmentation treatments
If appropriate for you, there are several in-clinic treatments available that, with the right aftercare at home, can deliver impressive results. Laser treatment is one such example that can be used to target the melanin in the skin and help break it down.
“Laser therapy can be effective for hyperpigmentation but must be used with caution in patients of colour and specific causes of pigmentation,” warns Dr Zamani (because darker skin tones can be more prone to post-inflammatory marks). For Dr Shotter, peels are her treatment of choice, if they’re deemed suitable for the individual.
“Other treatments, such as microneedling and mesotherapy, can be used to help deliver pigment-suppressing ingredients deeper into the dermis,” says Dr Denning, who uses a combination of peels, needling and mesotherapy in-clinic to optimise results, particularly in stubborn areas.
This may sound like a lot of options, but the specialist at the clinic you choose will be able to advise on the most appropriate options for you.
5. See a skin specialist
As mentioned earlier, there are several triggers that can cause hyperpigmentation. “While the sun is one, many cases are hormonally driven,” says Dr Shotter. “It’s important to find out what’s driving yours, so you can find the right treatment method.”
To do this, the experts recommend consulting a specialist. It’s a good idea to visit your GP initially, who may be able to refer you for a non-surgical cosmetic procedure, such as skin lightening, although the treatment might not be deemed suitable for you and can have serious side effects and complications.
Another option is to see someone who offers a private clinic. “Hyperpigmentation is usually a long-term condition that can be difficult to treat and almost always will come back if not managed appropriately,” says Dr Denning. “So, I’d advise seeing a skin specialist that has an interest in hyperpigmented skin.”
Shop more great skincare for hyperpigmentation below and in our full range.
