Debunking the internet’s favourite skincare trends

The world of beauty has seen some weird and wonderful trends throughout history (crocodile dung as moisturiser, anyone?). Thankfully we’re more clued up on peptides and skin barriers than the Ancient Greeks, but that doesn’t mean in 2024 we’re safe from misinformation and popular trends that won’t really do much for our skin.

If you’re feeling lost in the world of TikTok-trending skincare routines and want to separate fact from fiction, you’ve come to the right place. With some help from our Boots Beauty Specialists, we’ve given you a rundown of eight of the most popular beauty trends, explaining how they work, and debunking some common skincare myths.

Snail mucin

Yep, we are indeed talking about using the secretions from a snail as a serum to help boost hydration in our skin. But this isn’t as crazy as it sounds – in fact, this is one skincare trend that does have some merit to it.

What is snail mucin?

You’ve probably spotted snails making their way along the pavement before, leaving a slimy trail behind them. This is actually a secretion that helps the animals move and stay moist during spells of dry weather.

For centuries, snail mucin has been used in traditional medicine around the world for treating a number of skin concerns, from acne to healing wounds. Interest in the benefits of this mucus began after early snail handlers noticed their hands feeling soft after interacting with the animals. Upon further investigation, it was found that the mucin contains some skincare ingredients that you might already be familiar with – things like hyaluronic acid, allantoin (helps calm and hydrate the skin), glycolic acid (AHA) and peptides.

Does it work?

More recently, snail mucin has become a very popular TikTok skincare trend and it’s widely used in K-beauty communities. You can find it in a number of skincare products, but it’s most commonly made into serums, moisturisers and eye creams.

“Snail mucin is definitely a subject that gets people talking,” says Boots Beauty Specialist Allison Kersey. “There are concerns that the snails are treated badly or harmed, but actually the best mucin occurs when the snails are well rested and comfortable in their habitat, so they are well looked after. It’s rich in several compounds that are beneficial to the skin, especially for hydration.”

Despite its long-time appearance in skincare around the world, it’s worth noting that limited research has been conducted into the effectiveness of snail mucin on hydration levels. A study in 2015 found people who applied it twice a day for four weeks saw an improvement in things like fine lines and skin elasticity, but longer-term follow up studies would be needed to confirm these findings.

Skincare sandwiching

Also known as moisture sandwiching, this trend again aims to help boost your skin’s hydration and give a healthy, radiant glow with a specific method of applying your skincare products.

What is skincare sandwiching?

Skincare sandwiching refers to the process of layering your skincare products from thinnest formula to thickest, dampening the skin as you go between each layer. Done after cleansing the skin, skincare sandwiching helps trap water inside of the skin, reducing something called transepidermal water loss. Dampening the skin this way, either using a splash of tap water or a hydrating facial spray can also help with product penetration, meaning the ingredients in your products can more easily absorb into the skin and get to work.

Does it work?

In principle, yes – skincare sandwiching can be effective, especially for formulas which contain ingredients like hyaluronic acid (known to hold 10-times its own weight in water).

However, there are a few ingredients which you should not try sandwiching. These include anything that can cause irritation when used incorrectly – things like retinols or exfoliating acids. Also, those with acne-prone skin should try this trend with caution, as rich creams can exacerbate breakouts.

Slugging

Another one named after a creepy-crawly, this TikTok skincare trend has gained popularity due to its ability to increase your skin’s hydration, so you wake up with an enviable glow.  

What is slugging?

This trend gets its name from the slug-like sheen it leaves on your face. To effectively slug, once you have applied all your evening skincare products, you then apply a thick layer of an occlusive product (something designed to provide a protective seal over the skin) like Vaseline to trap moisture into the skin and lock in hydration.

Another K-beauty trend, slugging is thought to help repair your skin’s natural barrier, help skin look smoother and more plump, and feel softer and more hydrated. It’s a coveted method for achieving the ‘glass skin’ effect that’s also big on social media.

Does it work?

“Slugging has become very popular in recent years and I think it’s great, but this really depends on your skin type and concerns,” says Boots Beauty Specialist Leanna Elisha Zaman. “I would definitely recommend it if you’re more on the dry side of things. It works very well at creating a barrier to help lock that moisture in overnight, leaving you waking up nice and hydrated.”

However, even those with drier skin might not need to do it daily. Your skin’s hydration levels can be affected by all sorts – for example, our skin naturally produces more oils in warmer temperatures, so you won’t need to do this regularly during the summer months. However, those with oilier skin types might want to give this skincare trend a miss, or proceed with caution as the heavier formulas of occlusive products can trap in excess oils, aggravating breakouts.

It's also important to avoid using certain active ingredients when slugging, like AHAs or retinols. When trapped under the skin by a heavy outer layer of Vaseline or a similar product, this could increase the strength of the ingredient beyond what a dermatologist would recommend, resulting in some irritation.

Skin cycling

A common skincare myth is that skin cycling refers to the natural process of your skin cells renewing – in fact, it’s actually about the best way to use some of your favourite skin products.

What is skin cycling?

Compared to a decade ago, we’re all using more active ingredients in our daily skincare routines. Active ingredients refer to the ingredients found in your skincare that deliver certain specialised benefits. Examples include vitamin A (retinol), vitamin C (for brightening) or AHAs like glycolic acid (for exfoliating).

While it’s great that we’re feeling more clued up about our skincare routines and using the right ingredients for us, it can be hard to know the best way to use these products. Skin cycling helps you understand your skincare stash and learn how to streamline your routine. This way, you can ensure you’re using complementary products together, instead of ones that work against one another.

To learn more about skin cycling, you can check out our full guide.

Does it work?

It can take a little while to get your head around, but this is one skincare trend that’s worth spending time to understand, especially if you love to layer different types of serums and creams. It allows you to effectively balance your active ingredients and get great results while minimising the risk of any irritation.

Allison agrees: “Skin cycling is a trend that I’m definitely behind. It’s basically just giving your skin a chance to have a regular night off from any strong ingredients. It’s really important to give your skin a chance to recover and regenerate, so it’s about having those nights where you love your skin by feeding it with hydration and nourishment and giving it some time away from those stronger ingredients like acids or retinols.”

“Also, to protect your skin from UV damage that these ingredients can cause, please ensure you use a good facial SPF every day!”

At-home skin tech

There’s a world of at-home devices that can help you work towards your beauty goals. But which ones are worth your time and money?

What is available?

Depending on your skin goals, there’s a host of facial beauty tools out there designed to help you take care of your skin. Amongst the most popular in the TikTok skincare world are facial steamers, LED face masks and electronic cleansing brushes.

These all aim to help with different areas of your skincare routine. Steamers work to improve skin hydration by penetrating the epidermis (while giving you the full ‘at-home spa’ experience) whereas electronic cleansing brushes help to provide a deeper cleanse.

LED face masks have shot up in popularity recently, mostly due to their promise to offer multi anti-ageing benefits with one device.

Do they work?

At-home beauty tools mostly fall into the category of a ‘nice to have.’ They’re not essential to achieving skin you’re happy in (you’ll be surprised what a simple routine of cleansing, moisturiser and SPF can achieve), but they’re a great way of adding a touch of relaxation and ‘me-time’ to your daily routine.

Face yoga & gua sha

An ancient Chinese healing technique that’s been around for over 2000 years, gua sha routines are all over our social media feeds right now.

What is a gua sha?

Gua sha was originally a treatment for the body, but in more recent years has been adapted to be used on the face. It involves using a flat-edged stone or tool with a ‘scraping’ or gliding motion across the cheekbones, jawbone, neck and forehead to help invigorate blood circulation and promote lymphatic drainage.

Not only can it feel relaxing and help relieve stress, but it may also help create a temporary lifting effect to the face. To learn more about gua sha, you can read our guide to giving yourself an at-home facial massage.

Do they work?

Gua sha and other ‘face yoga’ methods can feel incredibly relaxing, but when it comes to whether consistent use can really change the shape of your face for good, the jury is still out. If you decide to give it a go, make sure to use a good facial oil to ensure there’s a good amount of slip and you’re not causing any damage to your skin. Those with sensitive skin types may want to skip this one, though – the swift movements can be aggravating.

Double cleansing

The aim of double cleansing is to ensure your skin is thoroughly cleansed of any make-up, sunscreen, daily dirt or impurities, leaving a blank canvas for the rest of your skincare products at the end of the day. In terms of technique, some people choose to go in twice with the same cleanser, while others select different products based on their needs.

For example, a common combination is to use an oil-based cleanser for your first cleanse, as these are particularly good at breaking down stubborn make-up products and also drawing out excess oils in the skin to remove them. Then, for the second cleanse, use a product that is water-based, as these more gentle formulas will help remove anything not washed away by the first cleanse and provide a dose of hydration.  

Does it work?

Double cleansing is an effective way of ensuring you’re properly removing any products you have used on your face throughout the day and can help prevent pores from becoming blocked. It’s suitable for all skin types, however those with drier skin types may not feel it necessary to do every day to avoid having that ‘squeaky clean’, stripped feeling.

“As someone who has dry skin I completely understand double cleansing isn’t always the best option,” says Leanna. “However, as a make-up lover who wears a full face of make-up most days of the week, double cleansing became my best friend as it really helped me make sure my skin was clean and clear at the end of the day.”

“I tend to use a very gentle water-based cleanser for my second cleanse to keep my skin clean but not dry or stripped after. I found that it was best to just double cleanse thoroughly once a day when wearing make-up in the evening and on my no make-up days, I opt for a single cleanse, as that is more than enough for my dry skin.”

Skin streaming

This one is simple – less is more!

What is skin streaming?

Normally a new trend comes with a new product to try. Not this one though! “Skin streaming is effectively just using less product on your skin in your regime,” says Allison. “Back in the day we were encouraged to have a three-step routine of cleanse, tone and moisturise, but then suddenly skincare routines boomed, and people were adding more steps. The K-beauty culture really started this off with a nine-step daily skin care routine. I think that a lot of us use somewhere in between that now.”

Essentially, this trend reinforces the idea that most people’s skin will benefit from a routine that includes only a gentle cleanser for removing impurities, a moisturiser to hydrate the skin and an SPF in the morning for sun protection. If you have particular skincare concerns or are interested in adding certain active ingredients into your routine (such as vitamin C for brightening and evening skin tone), then you’re free to do so. This trend is about trusting yourself and listening to your skin.

Does it work?

Skincare routines don’t need to be long and complicated to be effective. “The trick to skin streaming is simple,” says Allison. “You just need to choose the right ingredients so that you’re using less products but the ones you are using are more effective. Look out for multi-functional products that have many benefits in one application, like multi-peptide serums and hydrating cleansers.”